On Sunday we went to the Spot--the sandbag truck backed up and left some nice ones last week. However I did an Open problem (#5)from the comp second try! Definitely not in the same league as the others but fun nonetheless. The sloper pinch problem hegemony still reigns supreme as Open 10 clearly shows. However I realize that since the walls are so slabby overall, it is virtually the only way to set difficult problems. That said there is a great deal of room for improvement and variety in setting. I suggested to Tyler Landman that they pay him per hold so he is encouraged to add a few more footholds to his routes. We'll see.
The moves on the Blue Arrow problem are coming together but maybe not likely before the walls get stripped and reset.
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curious about any input you may have here, peter: it seems that ergonomic pinches on a steep wall excercise one's forearms extrememly well... does training on such pinches offer more benefits for overall climbing fitness versus training on more tweaky features like pockets and crimps, or does pulling on a bunch of pinches only help you pull on a bunch of pinches?
Sadly I will never find out since I seem incapable of gripping said pinches and actually moving off them. I think they build a type of grip but don't provide specific training on small bad holds which is what most problems outside consist of. Someone should do a study I guess
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