The starting hold and the damage after sending...
Winding up for the first move.
Sunday, April 27, 2008
One more project at Flagstaff
Yesterday in near perfect conditions I succeeded on a little problem at Flag I had been working on a little while. It starts just right of Hagan's Wall and joins the ramp on the right. When I got there this problem had a few tick marks on it but not on the holds that I used and in any case it doesn't really matter whether I got the "first" ascent or not. Anyway a bunch of tries on this very crimpy and insecure problem which I think is worth V10 and indicative of the remaining potential on the mountain.
The starting hold and the damage after sending...
Winding up for the first move.
The starting hold and the damage after sending...
Winding up for the first move.
Peter, I was with Will Lemaire when he did a similar overlapping problem in January 2006. Based on your description, he did not use the exact sequence as you ... same starting place, reach up and right to a RH sloper (possibly the hold you use with your LH), adjust feet to the right on small edges and violently dyno straight up to a pocket that is part of the 3rd/4th? rail and surf up the fun finishing moves. Not sure if you would like to consider these different problems or what. I will again try to pimp him for a name a grade, but you know how that sometimes goes. Let me know what you think or if you've tried or will try WL's version.
ReplyDeleteThe current state of Yojimbo's broken holds (and I use that term loosely) suggests that problem would currently be well into the double digits and VERY unpleasant at that.
Chuffer I did a problem similar to Will's many years ago that started LH on the edge and RH on a small pocket, bumped right to the sloping rail/fin, then popped left hand to a thin crimp and finished up the ramp. This was before the big step was installed. So the "new problem" doesn't use the pocket or the rail.
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