Thursday, June 12, 2008

Finally...

I finally sent Mongolian this morning. Watch the video to see my left hand pop off the lip for no apparent reason. Fortunately I had a good edge on the right and didn't spin off and fall. Conditions were OK but surprisingly slippery. I now see why some suggest the grade is soft V10, which I now agree with, especially in spring or summer. I had a much harder time on this than I expected to.

Now for the next project. Unfortunately I haven't yet decided what that will be. Maybe UCT which feels much easier than MC. If anyone has info on the agreed upon start for Reverse UCT, please let me know.

14 comments:

  1. Dan LevisonJune 12, 2008 at 12:08 PM

    Nice work Peter! Cool video!!!

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  2. ChrisJune 12, 2008 at 12:52 PM

    Nice job, Peter. Way to persevere at a tough time of year for Flag.

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  3. Peter BealJune 12, 2008 at 2:46 PM

    Thanks Dan and Chris, Definitely an epic on that problem right to th end. Chris do you have beta on Cryptic Magician?

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  4. chufferJune 12, 2008 at 3:44 PM

    The elusive MC on video, a real treat. Noice dood!!! FWIW, JE calls Mongolian SOLID V10.

    BETA for CM: Start LH low on the LH sidepull rail and RH just beneath the arete squeezing the bad but obvious pinch or groping the sidepull sloper. Use tiny feet to bump LH up 6" to the highest and best part of the vertical crimp rail. Stand up on RF and go out right to a bad 2 finger undercling that you can't really see. Dance feet getting RF up on small edge on shelf (and squeezing with your right thigh), go HARD AND FAR with RH to an impossible-to-see sharp 3-4 finger undercling 18" from the last one. Stand up. Get both feet on edges on the shelf, hold tension and get a pissy intermediate with your LH. HOLD ON!!! Go again LH (almost crossing over) to a high and GOOD crimp up on the face (the hold is white). Bring LF up onto a small bump on the face and cross over RH to the high jug rail. Don't blow the thin, but relatively easy topout moves!!!

    Mopst of my descriptions on my blog are not this thorough because I don't want to give it ALL away. Hope you agree.

    Call me 2night if you are interested in an AM session at Flag tomorrow - 303-525-4922. I can be there as early as 5:30 AM.

    chipper

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  5. ChrisJune 12, 2008 at 3:52 PM

    well, I'll pass on giving any beta since you just got the full info there! Go check it out; it's worthwhile. I wouldn't be surprised if you end up doing it in a slightly different sequence since another version might fit you a bit better than either of us.

    Should go quite a bit faster than Mongolian!

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  6. AnonymousJune 12, 2008 at 3:56 PM

    That was a great video. Nice send. You made the first move look easy. I would agree, V10. This thing took me a ton of work a few years back. Cryptic Egyption sounds rad and I'd love to get back on that rig.

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  7. Peter BealJune 12, 2008 at 9:39 PM

    Thanks again for the positive comments everyone. Chip my fingers are too trashed for a session tomorrow morning but if you can go out another time soon let me know. Amazing beta on CM!

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  8. chufferJune 13, 2008 at 12:19 AM

    No worries on the beta for Cryptic Magician. I'm psyched (and I'm sure JJ is to) that people NOW want to start trying it. Maybe Lesher's recent send will inspire more to give it a whirl. It's sharp, but the moves are really fun and when you make your first breakthrough on this V4ish looking line, you'll only have 3 or 4 more breakthroughs to go before you'll be standing on top ... BWAHAHAHA. The good news is it gets very little sun (middle of the day only), so it's easy to get some time in on it on all but the hottest days.

    We'll try again soon Peter! I can theoretically get out Saturday and Sunday morning Peter, but I may want to squeeze in a Switchbacks or Dino session rather than Flag this weekend. Let me know what you're up to.

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  9. UnknownJune 13, 2008 at 7:50 AM

    rad problem. nice send!

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  10. sock handsJune 15, 2008 at 10:34 AM

    reverse uct starts about one big step left of the finishing dihedral for regular uct... one good crystal foot at about knee height... two sweet spots at maybe shoulder width apart on top of sloping bulge. i'm really psyched for you to do this so i can then force you to get the second known ascent of the rev. uct - low cs trav - hand trav link i called 'trolling for mank'... took me 12 days at the same time when super gui took 4 [though hot conditions and mostly a 'route']... ['illegally mundane' is the same traverse start and finish, but off-routes less in the cs trav section]

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  11. Peter BealJune 15, 2008 at 11:20 AM

    Is that left or right of the dihedral?

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  12. chufferJune 15, 2008 at 4:27 PM

    For the record, and regardless of whether or not it is stupid to do so, the FAist started Reverse UCT sitting down on the VERY far right at the little cave. I suspect most folks that have repeated it have started closer to the dihedral, in the vicinity of where sock hands advises you start. I also suspect it is approximately a grade easier to do so. I look forward to your thoughts on the matter.

    2 cents

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  13. chufferJune 15, 2008 at 4:29 PM

    Oh yeah, sock hands meant to say "right" of the dihedral.

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  14. sock handsFebruary 27, 2009 at 9:40 AM

    just watched this again. ridiculous. this thing is so hard. what is your left foot on for the first move, if i may ask?
    thanks - j

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