I have been throwing myself at Mongolian Cosmonaut in vain for more mornings than I care to count. Aaargh! There is something about the first move that is thwarting me and I will probably give it a rest as I feel much stronger than the problem actually requires. It seems more a mental issue at this point, although crisper temps always help.
I have been away from the internet a few days which has been nice and have found myself slipping down to #13 in the 8a.nu master's ranking. This is in part due to a climber who has entered multiple flash ascents of the same problem. It's hard to beat the equivalent of 8 or 9 7c problems. While not wanting to get too whiny about it, isn't that what the logbook option is for? Anyway this little quirk provides a unique challenge to overcome in the quest for 10th place. I would propose that anyone who makes it into the top 20 of any of the rankings have a legitimate series of ascents. I would suggest that the only repeats you are allowed to enter are from at least one year previous and you never deserve a flash or onsight score for previously climbed routes or problems.
So I may be trying the Undercling Traverse which I have not done in something like 8 years. I would also like to get to Mt. Evans soon before I go East for a couple of weeks.
I have worked out the 3 pad carry system which isn't too bad and is fairly cush for bouldering alone.
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6 comments:
Funny -- looks like Chris Archer listed the Low Monkey Traverse like 9 times as a repeat. Chris is a great guy though. I would like to break top ten for 35+ for routes (currently at #15) -- also had a lot expire recently...
As far as 8a goes, nobody I know enters problems twice, much less 9 times. To each his own, I guess.
Several strong climbers are still of the opinion that the standard start for MC is V10, hence the split grade on my Flag blog guide. Consider this when you send.
I oftentimes carry 3 pads ... depending on the folks that are around you will either be laughed at or the MVP.
Dan,
Chris is a great guy. Does anyone know what holds are actually on or off for the problem?
Chip,
I do wonder about the grade on MC--maybe after Memorial Day and before Labor Day, it's probably V10. AS far as people laughing, as long as I'm still climbing reasonably hard at 44 I don't care what I look like:)
as far as the low monkey traverse goes everyone seems to have different rules...
Three pads sounds good to this old guy. The more the better when it comes to foam.
For the Low Monkey, if it is a hold that you can rest, chalk up or shake out on, then you are too high. This is the easiest way to describe it unless we are actually there. Sustained crimping in an uncomfortably low position.
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