Monday, September 29, 2008
Horsetooth Hang
On Saturday, I went up to Fort Collins and had a great time just belaying for the Horsetooth Hang. I hadn't been to Horsetooth since the early 90s and it was great just to look around and hang out with a good crew of other volunteers. I was stationed (thanks Cam) at two of the most classic Gill problems, Pinch Overhang and Left Eliminator, both major lunge problems where belaying is anything but passive. Really fun to see what these problems are like. Interestingly both have feasible lower starts that don't appear to have been done. No climbing as I have been recuperating from a cold but maybe soon.
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4 comments:
hey peter: good to see you at ze hang...
note: left eliminator has a low/sit start first done by alex difelice [andre's high rolling brother]. also, pinch overhang has that traverse that comes in from way left and ends there, so in some form, lower moves have been done to get into pinch. not sure if there's an actual sit, but i'd assume so.
of note is that some of those fort collins kids did a static start to the right eliminator and right eliminator prow... instead of gill starting up to the first left hand hold, one has to crimp and lock off somewhat statically to grab that hold. boosts the grade to v7 or 8 for each version, as i was told... think i put one of em down as 7 long ago, but couldn't even smell the repeat of it on saturday!
Hi JJ,
I was looking at a low RH start to pinch overhang, traversing along a small ramp thingy. The left eliminator start being done makes sense. The right eliminator start I just assumed went the way you described. I may have sandbagged a few climbers!
Peter, Bob Horan has patted himself on the back with his new guidebook. I would encourage you to go to Falcon.com and write a blog post. Mine is entitled Colorad bouldering guidebook embarassment. you should read what he wrote. unbelievable. jamie
Thanks Jamie. I will be calling Max Phelps and asking for a review copy.
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