So after some indoor climbing, I tried the Dragons bouldering outside, bouldering at Flagstaff. Now they are fully broken in and fit the way they should. The fit is snug and precise with plenty of sensitivity under the foot. Through the heel and instep there is plenty of control but they are comfortable enough to not have to take them off the second you step off the boulder. On the smears, pebbles and tiny edges typically found at Flagstaff, they are totally solid with no problems. I doubt that there will be any problem on granite.
I would say that these are some of the best shoes I have worn in the past 5 years. I would not have chosen the earlier velcro version as I am not a fan of velcro but the lace-up version is a very different animal.
I should also put in a word for Rock and Resole and Ripstop Repairs as I have had them do work for me recently. Both are next to each other near Foothills in Boulder. Eric at R&R has probably done over 20 resoles for my wife and me in the past 10 years and we have had no problems at all. Jim at Ripstop Repair just replaced some stitching on the Asana pad that tore, doing it on the spot for cheap. Asana has promised to reimburse me, per their warranty. I still have an old Cordless pad that is being rehabbed which will be ready soon.
having been a muira person for several years i jumped ship for five tens after the launch of the jet 7's. while my tenure in the j7's was short lived (i lost a shoe in the woods), the glove-like fit, pre-onyx stealth rubber, and powerful toebox convinced me i had missing out on an awesome lineup of shoes. my only complaint with the j7's was heel slippage. the velcro system just wasn't tight enough to always ensure a solid heel. nothing worse than having to abandon a mantle because your shoe won't stay on.
ReplyDeleteenter the dragon(s): insane talon-esque action in the steeps. nada heel slippage. really a perfect shoe.