Trailside Boulder
A stiff 10-15 minute hill climb leads to the overhanging outcrop where the problem is. The views are stupendous from this place and on a cool day, the sun warms up the rock quickly making it an ideal winter spot. The Infinite starts up the jugs of a problem called Pig-Dog and then tackles the bulge on the left on bad holds. It basically is a short V5 to a V9/10 move. The way I was trying it involved a pretty poor crimp for the right to a jump for a slot and felt very unlikely yet eventually doable. If anyone has alternative beta suggestions, please let me know.
For anyone looking for a good winter project in the V10-11 range, this problem is really good and well worth the short hike. Be careful about the approach and get good directions. You have to walk through a residential area and even use a private driveway to get started on the trail so keep quiet and be respectful of locals.
Trying the crux of the Infinite
Cool Peter. Send that thing man! I live right below the east draw, i shoulda hiked up today. Maybe I'll catch you next time. Also, there is some old info on that problem, if you care, here:
ReplyDeletehttp://dropkneeclimbing.blogspot.com/2007/02/eldorado-springs-bottled-water-6.html
But Peter, if your gonna play, play the "Honeymilker." It is a much classier V11, less hike, less drive, perfect stone, and just as blessed by the winter sun
http://dropkneeclimbing.blogspot.com/search?q=honeymilker
Andy,
ReplyDeleteIt looks like Paul's beta is very different from mine. Also where is the Honeymilker?
Peter
Obvious boulder on the left a short walk from the car. Park on yoga retreat road like you are going to The Industrial Wall.
ReplyDeletePeter, can you give directions as to where to park for this problem? Thanks i've tried to go up there a couple times and I never really know where to go.
ReplyDeleteAlso, I've never heard of the Trailside V10 you speak of, where is that?
jemerson
The trailside boulder was always considered v7 when I lived in eldo. Shows what e knew. Great problem, love the east draw.
ReplyDeleteApparently something broke and it merits an upgrade
ReplyDeletegotcha
ReplyDeleteSo, I pulled off the starting jug on Trailside Overhang V7 last spring. It sucks, but I'm surprised it stayed this long. I was indeed a huge jug and a great footer when moving around on the sloper and the pinch. I speculated to a few folks that it may be in the 9/10 range now, but who knows? It's definitely harder, although less classic IMHO, due to the heinous low starting holds.
ReplyDeleteAlso, there is a fierce crimping project that would climb the maroon streak on the left side of the west face, although it may not go.
yeah mon -Andy
oops, i meant right side of the west face.
ReplyDeleteHi Andy,
ReplyDeleteJudging from what is left, V9/10 seems appropriate. Holding the first sloper will be tough from the lower starting holds and the feet will be worse for the move to the lip. Do you happen to remember Paul's beta for the Infinite?
I think he went right to the little pinch crimp and fired right again to the lip/seam. I really can't recall.
ReplyDeleteJamie,
ReplyDeleteI emailed directions. If anyone else wants beta on how to get to these problems let me know.
seems like a left heel hook will make the top moves not so bad. i believe it all comes down to the first catch, which had been managed using the starting jug in its original design before the break. i didn't get to try it w/ andy on sunday, but would be psyched in the future for something close. why not quigong peter? much better stone and you're a crimp-love fool. perfect, i'd think.
ReplyDeletepete: did you do "pig dog" when you were up at the infinite? if not, SHAME ON YOU! by far the best line on the wall.
ReplyDeleteWet top-out dab on Pig Dog. Qigong is definitely on the list.
ReplyDelete