I got up really early this morning to hit Flagstaff before the temps warmed up and found myself at Cloudshadow after a short warm-up on the slabs at Nooks Rock. I wanted to get started by doing a problem I did a few weeks earlier before my elbow got wonky, Shadowline, a very thin and crimpy V9 right of Hagans Wall. I eventually want to link this into the regular traverse and then go into the Undercling Traverse. After a little bit of time checking out the holds I was surprised to do it first try so I then checked out a problem a bit west on Rear End Rock called Tongue in Cheek, V9. I did this for the first time last year and it took many many tries and at least 4 days. After a bit of work and maybe 4 tries, I did this problem as well. The last problem I wanted to try was the L to R traverse of the Red Wall into the Red Wall Regular Route which is probably easy V9. After an initial try to the last move, I did it on the next one, though barely. A great short session and some light at the end of the tunnel for the elbow?
As a relatively new father myself, Father's Day has an entirely new meaning and given me a new appreciation for what my father has given me. If you're a dad and you're still climbing (and of course even if you're not) congratulations! And if you have (or had) a father, take a moment to consider what that relationship is all about (even if it hasn't been easy) and give thanks for all you have experienced in this world.
Here's a video of Tongue in Cheek, Shadowline to follow.
Not a bad day's work, Peter.
ReplyDeleteBTW, you should consider using a free vimeo account for you videos. I would allow for a higher-resolution upload (I think).
I have a vimeo account but the upload times are really long.
ReplyDeletePeter, I see that Tongue in Cheek starts matched at the chest high undercling but does anyone do it from the as a sit start with left hand on the next undercling down, roll through to the right hand seam, come in to the start undercling and drive by to the edge? Seems like a pretty obvious start with butt in the dirt? Thanks!
ReplyDelete-Eric
Oddly the sit start is regarded as an easier option. Where is your right hand to start?
ReplyDeleteSomewhere out right on a side pull or undercling. That (oddly enough) makes sense as it seems harder to pull on matched in the undercling. Odd that it wasn't just originally done from the sit (since it's more "obvious")!
ReplyDeletehttp://flagstaffmountainbouldering.blogspot.com/2008/04/rear-end-rock-miniguide.html describes this version. I am not sure the sitdown is really that good but go for it :)
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