Nook's Rock Moderates from peter beal on Vimeo.
Saturday, April 17, 2010
Nook's Rock: A Few Moderates
I made a short video of some of the easier problems at Nook's Rock. While very easy, the first two shown here offer really great climbing, on some of the best rock on the mountain. That Flakes It Direct is very different, short, steep, and thuggish; basically a good benchmark for how the session will go.
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6 comments:
For "that flakes it direct" try (from the starting holds) going RH first to the big angling hold (straight up from the start holds), instead of going LH first to the poor arete hold.
I'm curious to see if you think the RH first beta is easier...
cheers
Chad
Haven't done it that way yet. Good call.
If you are looking for variations, another one as per Chad is go left first like you do, but then throw your left heel all the way around to a good heel hook, then bump again all the way around with your left hand to a good hold, then up with right hand to a bump, then to the crimp/flake and top.
Also, curious if you are still updating the B Canyon guide?
Hi Peter. If you have new info on BC pass it along. The problems Bob Horan has been posting on MP have been less than inspiring in appearance but who knows?
I don't have your email (pnj @ bauuinstitute.com). Otherwise, you can see some of them on my blog. Mostly shorter moderates up to V9. Maybe they are not worthy... but they do add more to B Canyon.
Chad, the way you mention is definitely much easier than the version in the video.
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